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tackle talk
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A good trailer is a vital part of your boating rig.
When Tony the editor asked me to research and write an article about boat trailers, I jumped at the chance. The subject is dear to my heart, as I have always felt that boat retailers commonly do the boating community a disservice by selling boats that weigh 1000 kg + on a trailer without brakes fitted ̶ placing the purchaser in a risky and possibly illegal position, to say nothing of possible insurance risk. Doing my research, I have discovered that the subject is quite complex, and inevitably I have ended up quoting lots of legislation. Sorry about that! I need to point out that this article should not be used on its own as legal advice. You should do your own research if you are unsure of the law.
This rig weighs about 1500kg should it have been sold without brakes?
Vehicle rated for towing braked trailer up to 2500kg
Tie downs must be rated for twice boat weight.
The remains of the trailer bearing caused by combination of bearing buddies and hot brakes.
Ensure the override brake plunger is kept greased.
A trailer brake fitting showing hand brake.
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Tow Vehicles and Tow Bars
While smaller boats up to say 1000 kg can be towed safely by a 2-litre family car, you should definitely look at a heavier SUV, preferably 4WD, for larger boats. 4WD is essential if beach launching, and desirable even when ramp launching, when the surface at low tide can be very slippery. Diesel will provide a lot more torque for towing and will be much less expensive to run fuel-wise. Some people suggest a diesel is a lot more expensive to service, but that has not been my experience. You must have a correctly fitted and certified towbar. Every Vehicle towbar has a rating plate which gives the un-braked (usually 750 KG) and braked, trailer rating. LTSA recommends that these limits are followed, although it is not a legal requirement. However, the law requires that every light vehicle and trailer combination must be capable of stopping within a distance of seven metres from a speed of 30 km/h. This means that the maximum weight of an un-braked trailer being towed by your vehicle is limited by the weight and braking ability of the vehicle you use to tow it. To meet this requirement, LTSA suggests that the loaded trailer weight should not exceed ¾ of the unladen weight of your tow vehicle. You should also ensure that tyres and brakes are in good condition. With a braked trailer, it is possible that you can tow a trailer heavier than ¾ of the tow vehicle’s weight, but the same 7 metres at 30kmh rule applies. You should also consider your Insurance Company’s reaction should you be in an accident when you have not been able to stop and your trailer weight exceeds towbar ratings. I have been unable to get a definitive response from an Insurance Company with regard to their likely attitude to this, but would suggest caution ̶ you know insurance companies eh! You should also refer to your tow vehicle owner’s manual which will show maximum braked and un-braked towing specifications. Brakes There are two main types of brakes fitted to boat trailers. Hydraulic override – A simple override plunger incorporated into the trailer coupling compresses when the tow vehicle brakes are applied transferring hydraulic pressure to the brake callipers. This is a very simple and robust system where brakes are installed on one axle. Electric – An electronic device on the tow vehicle operates the trailer brakes when the tow vehicle brakes are activated. Top-end models can be adjustable, so that the degree of trailer braking is proportionate to how hard you push on the brake pedal. They can also have in-cab controllers. Electronic brake systems are used for heavier boats; they are sometimes mandatory. Their advantage is that they can operate several sets of brakes, such as on a multi-axle trailer. Electric systems have a battery-powered breakaway device that automatically applies the brakes should the tow vehicle and trailer part company. Brakes fitted to a trailer, whether or not they are legally required, must be in good working order. The parking brake, if fitted, must be capable of holding the trailer at rest on a slope of one in five. Brake Rules Trailers up to 2000 kg are not legally required to have brakes, but must be able to stop within 7 metres at 30 kmh; a single rated safety chain must be used. Trailers 2000 to 2500 kg must be braked on at least one axle, with either override brakes or with cab-controlled brakes, and again must be able to stop within 7 metres from 30 km/hr. Dual -crossed safety chains or an electrically-operated breakaway system is also required on trailers in this weight class. Both coupling and chains are required to be rated and marked. Trailers 2500 kg to 3500 kg must be fitted with brakes with in-cab control. A breakaway must also be fitted, and a mechanical park brake on at least one axle which can hold the trailer and load in position on a slope of 1 in 5 (approx. 20 degrees) Drivers Licence You can drive towing a trailer on a normal driver licence as long as the combined weight of the tow vehicle and trailer does not exceed 6000 kg. Over that total weight and you will require an HT licence. Drivers with a restricted or learners’ licence are limited to 4500 kg total weight. Speed Limit The speed limit when towing a trailer is 90 kph. Towing Your Boat Remember that your vehicle’s responses are going to be slower with the weight of your boat trailer attached. So both acceleration and braking will need more road. When travelling downhill, change down a gear or two to help slow the trailer rather than relying on your brakes. If you do brake, do so lightly. If your trailer starts to sway: |
A very smart looking alloy trailer.
When cornering, remember that the boat will tend to cut the corner, so you need to swing wider and make the turn more gradual. Leave plenty of room between you and the vehicle in front. Practice reversing your trailer in a carpark so you are confident in your abilities. Finally, be courteous and aware of other drivers. Pull over when safe, to allow following drivers to pass.
Launching Etiquette
There is an old adage, “It’s not flying that’s dangerous; it’s just the taking off and landing.” This adage applies to boating as well.
If it’s your first time at a ramp, take time to check it out; maybe watch a couple of boats being launched your before you attempt it. Check which way the wind is blowing, so that you can place boat between the wind and any jetty. Check to see if there are designated launching and retrieval lanes. Launching usually takes precedence over retrieval. Make sure that you put any gear in your boat, put the bungs in, remove all tie downs, turn power on and have everything ready before you approach the ramp, so that you do not hold up other ramp users.
Check that your D shackle is easy to undo. (By the way, a galvanised D shackle is better than a stainless steel one). Don’t jump the queue. Attach a rope to your boat so it doesn’t disappear into the harbour when you release it. Back your trailer in far enough so that the boat runs off smoothly and without making contact with the ramp. Preferably control your boat as it runs off the trailer. Designate someone to hold the boat while you park the tow vehicle and trailer. Instruct them to move your boat to the end of the jetty or to the side of the ramp so that other users are not delayed.
If you are new to this, don’t be afraid to ask for assistance; maybe ask an experienced boatie to help by backing your trailer down the ramp or guiding you. Usually they will be only too pleased to show off their skills. Don’t practice on a busy ramp. To misquote an old Abraham Lincoln saying, “It’s better to ask for help and appear stupid than to make a hash of backing your trailer in and remove all doubt.”
Once back at your boat get aboard and motor out of the way as quickly as possible.
Retrieval Etiquette
Basically this is the opposite of launching. Don’t jump the queue. Make sure you are using the correct side of the jetty if there are designated launch/retrieval lanes. Give way to launching boats. Check which way the wind is blowing so that your boat is blown up against the jetty rather than away from it. Have fenders (if you use them) and a rope ready before you approach the jetty. Don’t go so slow that you lose steerage way; just before the boat touches the jetty, slip the engine in to reverse and give it a few revs to slow the boat down to avoid impact.
If you turn your wheel towards the jetty before reversing, this will tend to bring the stern in so that you end up parallel with the jetty, very neat and rewarding. Instruct your passengers not to attempt to jump off the boat until you tell them. Designate someone to hold the boat while you get the trailer. Instruct them to move the boat towards the shore when there is space, so that other boaties can come in behind your vessel.
Before taking the trailer to the ramp, ensure that the winch rope is pulled out and hooked to the end of the trailer. Better to do this now, rather than at the ramp ̶ up to your waist in water. Back your trailer in far enough for the boat to easily be pulled onto it. It’s a good idea to establish a point on the trailer mudguard where you know this is the correct depth (I use my sidelights). If you slightly turn the trailer towards the jetty, it may be easier to introduce the boat to the trailer.
With the assistance of your boat handler pull the boat to the trailer’s end and centre it on the rollers, engage the winch rope hook and haul it up. Don’t forget to attach the safety chain to the boat before driving out of the water. Don’t just rely on the winch rope. Easy, eh? Finally, move well away from the ramp before starting the process of fitting tie downs, flags and unloading gear. At ramps which don’t have jetties, the same rules apply except that after launching and before retrieval you should move the boat to the side to give others access. Boat ramp courtesy will win you a lot of friends.
Beach Launching and Retrieval
In calmer waters this is a relatively simple operation with a couple of provisos.
Do your research ̶ ask locals what the conditions are like, and how long before and after low tide you can launch or retrieve. Sometimes there are better areas of the beach where the sand is firmer. Use a 4WD. Again, before launching, ensure that you have everything ready before taking the plunge, so that your vehicle and trailer are at the water’s edge for as short a period as possible. Back the trailer in so that the car ends up at an angle to the trailer. This means that the tow vehicle is better able to ‘break’ the trailer out of the sand should its wheels sink in. This is especially important on retrieval. If in doubt, don’t do it.
Trailer Dimensions, Rules and Regulations
Most boat trailers (single or dual axles) are classified as a ‘light trailer’ and as such must have a maximum width of no more than 2.55 metres, and rear overhang of no more than 4 metres. The maximum length for a light simple trailer (including drawbar and load) is 12.5 metres. For a towing vehicle and simple trailer combination (including the load, but excluding collapsible mirrors), the maximum overall length is 22 metres. The maximum height for a light simple trailer (including the load) is 4.3 metres. The combination tow vehicle and trailer (excluding collapsible mirrors) must be able to complete a 360-degree turn, to the left and to the right, within a circle of 25 metres diameter (kerb to kerb).
All trailers must have:
Tie Downs
You must use tie downs (webbing straps) that are attached to a secure mounting point on the trailer. The straps must have a breaking capacity twice the weight of your boat.
Oversize Boats
Oversize boats, that is ones which are wider than 2.55 metres and/or higher than 4.3 metres may be permitted to be on the road as ‘over dimension vehicles,’ and have a separate set of regulations governing them. While these regulations are probably too complex to detail here, suffice to say that you need a permit to use an over-width trailer and there are limited roads on which you may have access. A warning flag (in daytime) or warning light system (at night) must be used.
Trailers are most commonly made of galvanised steel; however, more recently, trailers made of aluminium alloy have become available. Their higher purchase price is set off to some degree by their longevity. Some commentators suggest that boaties who do a lot of beach launching should use the galvanised steel option as it is more rigid.
Drive on-Drive Off Trailers
Some boat and trailer manufacturers have ‘drive on-drive off’ devices fitted standard to their trailers or available after-market devices such as ‘Boat Catch.’
Be aware that in some areas, the use of such devices is considered illegal under local bylaws (such as the Bay of Plenty). Some ramps also have rules regarding these devices. As a matter of courtesy, this method should not be used when the concrete ramp is short, or near low tide, as prop wash may cause erosion of the sea bed at the ramp’s end. Drive on-drive off aficionados have the slight advantage of being able to use the centre of a wide ramp rather than the edges close to the jetties.
Boat Winches
Most trailers come with a hand operated winch. In the past, a wire rope was used to winch the boat on; however, more recently, the wire rope has been replaced by a multi-strand nylon rope which lasts longer and is stronger. With larger vessels the hand winch is replaced by an electric winch, usually with a remote control. A variety of after-market electric winches are available to convert manual systems, and these are very easy to fit. Many electric winch owners now use a battery starter pack to power the winch rather than having a battery mounted on the trailer.
Balex Automatic Boat Loader
A relatively new innovation, the Balex, uses a system of ultra-grip belts and hydraulic motors permanently mounted on the trailer to power the boat on or off, for boats up to 2500 kg. The Balex can be specified with a new trailer or added as an after-market accessory.
Caring For Your Trailer
Trailer maintenance is vital, as any failure will surely ruin your day’s fishing. Trailers should be thoroughly washed after being in salt water, taking extra care to wash out any tubular sections and around the brakes, if fitted. Use heaps of water. The manufacturer of my trailer (galvanised) suggests that plain water is enough without using salt-dissolving agents. The use of salt-dissolving agents every wash caused a crusty corrosive build up on my original trailer over five years, whereas my new trailer washed only in fresh water seems to be in pretty much original condition even after two years of weekly use. Be sure to regularly grease the override plunger on your brakes, and lube and inspect your winch. Check tyre pressures and tyre wear.
Bearing buddies ̶ these devices uses a spring system to constantly force grease in to the wheel bearing. My own experience on my first braked trailer was that when the brakes became hot, the grease broke down, and the bearing buddy forced this more fluid consistency grease out through the inner bearing seal where it sprayed all over the trailer and boat and actually started to smoke as the grease caught fire. This happened several times, sometimes destroying the bearing.
As a result, I have not fitted bearing buddies to my new trailer. This decision was endorsed by the trailer manufacturer who has clients with trailers that have been used for many years without bearing buddies. I figure if bearing buddies were essential, then trailer manufacturers would fit them as standard. I get my own trailer bearings checked and repacked every six months. Having said that, my usage is probably a lot higher than most casual boaties, as I regularly travel for over an hour each way every trip.
I hope this has given you an insight into boat trailers and their use, as well as some food for thought. It may also be an incentive to review how well your trailer suits your boat. If your boat/trailer combination weighs more than 750 kg maybe you should look at upgrading by adding brakes. Certainly, I believe that boat retailers should look at their ethics with regard to selling un-braked boat/trailer combinations that could cause their customers grief with their insurance company, if not the law. Perhaps they should display a warning or towing specification sheet at point of sale, something like, “This boat and trailer weighs 1200 kg, so requires a minimum tow vehicle weight of 1600 kg” or similar.
Take care with those trailers.
- Do not apply the tow vehicles brakes (unless you are at risk of hitting something), but take your foot off the accelerator.
- Apply the trailer brakes if you have a brake controller fitted.
- Try to steer the tow vehicle in a straight line.
- Gently and slowly apply the tow vehicles brakes until the trailer is under control.
- Pull over safely and determine the reason for the sway.
- Check your load distribution, drawbar weight/angle and tyre pressures and remedy.
When cornering, remember that the boat will tend to cut the corner, so you need to swing wider and make the turn more gradual. Leave plenty of room between you and the vehicle in front. Practice reversing your trailer in a carpark so you are confident in your abilities. Finally, be courteous and aware of other drivers. Pull over when safe, to allow following drivers to pass.
Launching Etiquette
There is an old adage, “It’s not flying that’s dangerous; it’s just the taking off and landing.” This adage applies to boating as well.
If it’s your first time at a ramp, take time to check it out; maybe watch a couple of boats being launched your before you attempt it. Check which way the wind is blowing, so that you can place boat between the wind and any jetty. Check to see if there are designated launching and retrieval lanes. Launching usually takes precedence over retrieval. Make sure that you put any gear in your boat, put the bungs in, remove all tie downs, turn power on and have everything ready before you approach the ramp, so that you do not hold up other ramp users.
Check that your D shackle is easy to undo. (By the way, a galvanised D shackle is better than a stainless steel one). Don’t jump the queue. Attach a rope to your boat so it doesn’t disappear into the harbour when you release it. Back your trailer in far enough so that the boat runs off smoothly and without making contact with the ramp. Preferably control your boat as it runs off the trailer. Designate someone to hold the boat while you park the tow vehicle and trailer. Instruct them to move your boat to the end of the jetty or to the side of the ramp so that other users are not delayed.
If you are new to this, don’t be afraid to ask for assistance; maybe ask an experienced boatie to help by backing your trailer down the ramp or guiding you. Usually they will be only too pleased to show off their skills. Don’t practice on a busy ramp. To misquote an old Abraham Lincoln saying, “It’s better to ask for help and appear stupid than to make a hash of backing your trailer in and remove all doubt.”
Once back at your boat get aboard and motor out of the way as quickly as possible.
Retrieval Etiquette
Basically this is the opposite of launching. Don’t jump the queue. Make sure you are using the correct side of the jetty if there are designated launch/retrieval lanes. Give way to launching boats. Check which way the wind is blowing so that your boat is blown up against the jetty rather than away from it. Have fenders (if you use them) and a rope ready before you approach the jetty. Don’t go so slow that you lose steerage way; just before the boat touches the jetty, slip the engine in to reverse and give it a few revs to slow the boat down to avoid impact.
If you turn your wheel towards the jetty before reversing, this will tend to bring the stern in so that you end up parallel with the jetty, very neat and rewarding. Instruct your passengers not to attempt to jump off the boat until you tell them. Designate someone to hold the boat while you get the trailer. Instruct them to move the boat towards the shore when there is space, so that other boaties can come in behind your vessel.
Before taking the trailer to the ramp, ensure that the winch rope is pulled out and hooked to the end of the trailer. Better to do this now, rather than at the ramp ̶ up to your waist in water. Back your trailer in far enough for the boat to easily be pulled onto it. It’s a good idea to establish a point on the trailer mudguard where you know this is the correct depth (I use my sidelights). If you slightly turn the trailer towards the jetty, it may be easier to introduce the boat to the trailer.
With the assistance of your boat handler pull the boat to the trailer’s end and centre it on the rollers, engage the winch rope hook and haul it up. Don’t forget to attach the safety chain to the boat before driving out of the water. Don’t just rely on the winch rope. Easy, eh? Finally, move well away from the ramp before starting the process of fitting tie downs, flags and unloading gear. At ramps which don’t have jetties, the same rules apply except that after launching and before retrieval you should move the boat to the side to give others access. Boat ramp courtesy will win you a lot of friends.
Beach Launching and Retrieval
In calmer waters this is a relatively simple operation with a couple of provisos.
Do your research ̶ ask locals what the conditions are like, and how long before and after low tide you can launch or retrieve. Sometimes there are better areas of the beach where the sand is firmer. Use a 4WD. Again, before launching, ensure that you have everything ready before taking the plunge, so that your vehicle and trailer are at the water’s edge for as short a period as possible. Back the trailer in so that the car ends up at an angle to the trailer. This means that the tow vehicle is better able to ‘break’ the trailer out of the sand should its wheels sink in. This is especially important on retrieval. If in doubt, don’t do it.
Trailer Dimensions, Rules and Regulations
Most boat trailers (single or dual axles) are classified as a ‘light trailer’ and as such must have a maximum width of no more than 2.55 metres, and rear overhang of no more than 4 metres. The maximum length for a light simple trailer (including drawbar and load) is 12.5 metres. For a towing vehicle and simple trailer combination (including the load, but excluding collapsible mirrors), the maximum overall length is 22 metres. The maximum height for a light simple trailer (including the load) is 4.3 metres. The combination tow vehicle and trailer (excluding collapsible mirrors) must be able to complete a 360-degree turn, to the left and to the right, within a circle of 25 metres diameter (kerb to kerb).
All trailers must have:
- A safe and strong coupling and a safety chain or cable.
- If the trailer or its load is more than 2 metres wide, it must have two white lights at the front to show how wide it is.
- Safe tyres ̶ the tread depth must be at least 1.5 millimetres right around the tyre.
- Mudguards
- You must display an outboard flag, or, during the legal hours of darkness, this must be a red light which must be visible from at least 200 metres away.
- There needs to be a downward force, of approximately 10 percent of the weight of the trailer and its load, on the tow coupling to ensure it remains stable while being towed.
Tie Downs
You must use tie downs (webbing straps) that are attached to a secure mounting point on the trailer. The straps must have a breaking capacity twice the weight of your boat.
Oversize Boats
Oversize boats, that is ones which are wider than 2.55 metres and/or higher than 4.3 metres may be permitted to be on the road as ‘over dimension vehicles,’ and have a separate set of regulations governing them. While these regulations are probably too complex to detail here, suffice to say that you need a permit to use an over-width trailer and there are limited roads on which you may have access. A warning flag (in daytime) or warning light system (at night) must be used.
Trailers are most commonly made of galvanised steel; however, more recently, trailers made of aluminium alloy have become available. Their higher purchase price is set off to some degree by their longevity. Some commentators suggest that boaties who do a lot of beach launching should use the galvanised steel option as it is more rigid.
Drive on-Drive Off Trailers
Some boat and trailer manufacturers have ‘drive on-drive off’ devices fitted standard to their trailers or available after-market devices such as ‘Boat Catch.’
Be aware that in some areas, the use of such devices is considered illegal under local bylaws (such as the Bay of Plenty). Some ramps also have rules regarding these devices. As a matter of courtesy, this method should not be used when the concrete ramp is short, or near low tide, as prop wash may cause erosion of the sea bed at the ramp’s end. Drive on-drive off aficionados have the slight advantage of being able to use the centre of a wide ramp rather than the edges close to the jetties.
Boat Winches
Most trailers come with a hand operated winch. In the past, a wire rope was used to winch the boat on; however, more recently, the wire rope has been replaced by a multi-strand nylon rope which lasts longer and is stronger. With larger vessels the hand winch is replaced by an electric winch, usually with a remote control. A variety of after-market electric winches are available to convert manual systems, and these are very easy to fit. Many electric winch owners now use a battery starter pack to power the winch rather than having a battery mounted on the trailer.
Balex Automatic Boat Loader
A relatively new innovation, the Balex, uses a system of ultra-grip belts and hydraulic motors permanently mounted on the trailer to power the boat on or off, for boats up to 2500 kg. The Balex can be specified with a new trailer or added as an after-market accessory.
Caring For Your Trailer
Trailer maintenance is vital, as any failure will surely ruin your day’s fishing. Trailers should be thoroughly washed after being in salt water, taking extra care to wash out any tubular sections and around the brakes, if fitted. Use heaps of water. The manufacturer of my trailer (galvanised) suggests that plain water is enough without using salt-dissolving agents. The use of salt-dissolving agents every wash caused a crusty corrosive build up on my original trailer over five years, whereas my new trailer washed only in fresh water seems to be in pretty much original condition even after two years of weekly use. Be sure to regularly grease the override plunger on your brakes, and lube and inspect your winch. Check tyre pressures and tyre wear.
Bearing buddies ̶ these devices uses a spring system to constantly force grease in to the wheel bearing. My own experience on my first braked trailer was that when the brakes became hot, the grease broke down, and the bearing buddy forced this more fluid consistency grease out through the inner bearing seal where it sprayed all over the trailer and boat and actually started to smoke as the grease caught fire. This happened several times, sometimes destroying the bearing.
As a result, I have not fitted bearing buddies to my new trailer. This decision was endorsed by the trailer manufacturer who has clients with trailers that have been used for many years without bearing buddies. I figure if bearing buddies were essential, then trailer manufacturers would fit them as standard. I get my own trailer bearings checked and repacked every six months. Having said that, my usage is probably a lot higher than most casual boaties, as I regularly travel for over an hour each way every trip.
I hope this has given you an insight into boat trailers and their use, as well as some food for thought. It may also be an incentive to review how well your trailer suits your boat. If your boat/trailer combination weighs more than 750 kg maybe you should look at upgrading by adding brakes. Certainly, I believe that boat retailers should look at their ethics with regard to selling un-braked boat/trailer combinations that could cause their customers grief with their insurance company, if not the law. Perhaps they should display a warning or towing specification sheet at point of sale, something like, “This boat and trailer weighs 1200 kg, so requires a minimum tow vehicle weight of 1600 kg” or similar.
Take care with those trailers.